By Maria Cristina Pavarini

An apparent quietness pervaded the recently closed edition of Denim Premiere Vision. The show held on 18 and 19 November 2015 at Fira Montijuc in Barcelona seemed to have been visited by less poeple than past editions, even if when speaking to exhibitors, the majority showed satisfied about having their booths full of people, having met many clients and top quality ones. Certainly the recent happenings in Paris have not encouraged insiders for travelling, plus the show’s winter edition does usually register a slightly lower attendance. Despite all this the show organization reported on stable attendance figures and the opening party was crowded and characterized by a lively atmosphere with guests chatting and dancing until late at night.

Bye-bye Barcelona? Not yet
Once more there were rumours circulating about the possibility to move the show from Barcelona to another city, but the organization denied this for the near future. According to some exhibitors, the show is hosting less and less European, US and Turkish top notch weavers, companies that are still strongly investing in R&D, innovation and top quality and whose products are more expensive than those offered by weavers from low-cost manufacturing countries, now crowding the show.
Other exhibitors, such as Cone Denim, see things differently: “Exhibiting at this show gives us the opportunity to meet different customers from the ones we can meet at Kingpins Amsterdam, for instance. Therefore we think that also Barcelona represents a great show-window we cannot miss,” commented Kara Nicholas, vice president product development and marketing, Cone Denim.

Installation in the trend forum
Installation in the trend forum

Hot trends
The show’s presented forecast of fabric trends for s/s 2017 included California moods, ‘70s inspirations, visible breakings and rippings, sun-dried colors, dusty and pale blues, yellows, greens and pinks. Rouches, volants, fringes and comfy items to be worn in more layers characterized the offer presented in the show’s trend forum. As a further support for their trend report, the show also organized their second trend talk held by expert denim insider and Premiere Vision consultant Michelle Branch (our reportage will be posted in the next days).

Smart conversations
The show also organised its first Denim Smart Conversation, a new platform aimed at presenting and sharing experiences and best practices of industry issues. This time, the event focused on sustainable and eco-friendly experiences. Amongst the most interesting experiences shared within the round table was Enrique Silla, owner of Jeanologia, who stressed that pursuing sustainable production practices cannot follow half-measures: “You have to bet on a 100% eco-friendly collection, today. Doing a small percentage is insufficient in today’s market. And today’s technology allows you to create products as beautifully made and with the same appealing look as the ones manufactured with conventional processes.”
Omer Ahmed, CEO of denim and garment manufacturer Artistic Milliners, spoke about his company’s experience: “Since years we have tried to follow this path since some years, but the market was not ready for it yet. Now sustainability is a mindset. We recycle 70% of the water we employ; when we employ polyester we use recycled one, or, when using man-made fibers we opt for Tencel that is produced according to ecofriendly industrial processes. Also Tonello’s newest development, the no stone abrasion machine, is a perfect tool for such type of products. Our aim is not to earn easy money but to pursue true innovation.”

Multifunction is cool
Many fabric collections have focused their attention on new functional denims and alternative new fibers. Among them, for instance, Orta launched its BioKinetic denim. Prosperity has launched some new fabrics as their newest denim made with Amicor, an antimicrobial fiber, and Sweet Indigo, a fabric that demands 60% less chemical oxygen in its production and employs no hydrosulfite.

Bossa offer
Bossa offer

Bossa goes ecofriendly and functional
Bossa launched some new fabrics. One is a four-way stretch high-recovery denim with climate control properties thanks to the use of Coolmax. Another one employs 21% Cleancool, a Japanese antibacterial fiber, and 79% organic cotton. This way this fabric is double sustainable because it employs organic cotton and doesn’t need to be washed so often. Also new is their denim made with Ice Cotton, a 100% natural cotton produced by Swiss company Spoerry. This denim has a very fresh and cool touch and is perfect for summer looks.

More sustainability for Tejidos Royo
Tejidos Royo has launched some interesting optic fabrics. They launched a series of 3D fabrics, Tencel fabrics featuring high-resolution special motives not obtained with laser and others again as part of the Ambi-Wash project. This group of fabrics is made with high-end sustainable fibers and processes. They employ environmentally friendly dyeing substances by Italian specialist Montega Verde whose surfactants are obtained through natural and renewable ingredients. They are washed by specialised Italian laundry Lim.

New prints by Tejidos Royo
New prints by Tejidos Royo