Milan's menswear shows held in January 2017 revealed some of the hottest trends for f/w 2017/2018.
A main trend that many maisons have embraced are generally more relaxed and comfier silhouettes and fits. Forget super-tight jeans and very short jackets. Many designers have rather opted for longer, wider and oversize pieces, often worn with high belts.
Knitwear is dominated by mohair sweaters often wide and long and completed by visible motives such as tresses, evident surface motives, pop-art motives (Ermanno Scervino), bold stripes (Luca Larenza) and asymmetric elements.
Hues play together as if part of a kaleidoscope of yellow (Marni, Dondup, Dolce&Gabbana), orange (Plein Sport) and bright blue (Plein Sport) – often juxtaposed to black, camel beige, greys and dark greens.
Hairy fur coats are cool again – often mixing different hues like abstract graphics (Emporio Armani), unique patchworks (Marni, Prada) or colorful striped mixes (Moschino).
Outdoor and open air sports are a real must for the season. Many designers showed their models wearing outdoor sports outfits either carrying snowboards under their arms (Giorgio Armani, Etro), or carrying backpacks – silver and golden ones at Armani show, covered with fur (Emporio Armani) or cool Paisley prints as seen at Etro.
A special credit goes to Moncler that was inspired by mountain hiking, showing models wearing striped or bold colored outfits from blue, white and red, but also grey and light blue, grey and black, tied together with chords and snap hooks as if they were climbing mountains, though wearing cool urban-meet-outdoor outfits.
Huge and bulky down jackets were also protagonists of many catwalks, often featuring bold colors or funky printed motives with a street-rapper attitude (Plein Sport, Dolce&Gabbana, Moschino).
The military and urban fighter looks are generally hot. Diesel Black Gold gave its own unique interpretation by presenting wider and softer silhouettes reminding of an urban ninja look. The collection includes kimono-like double-breasted leather perfectos, wide nylon overlapped bombers and cropped trousers conveying some typical Japanese samurai apparel.
Myar takes a new direction and offers cool streetwear-chic essential pieces whose design is inspired by details and elements of real tanks or artillery pieces.
Moschino played with the idea of anti-war military apparel by reinventing camouflage with painted flowers, baroque prints, flower patterns and funky metallic elements.
Antonio Marras presented its men and women collection in an oneiric and poetic installation. The collection mixes military elements with fancy appliques, embroideries, checks and prints.
Embellished jeans and elaborate surface jeans are cool for Dolce & Gabbana stating once more the importance that denim plays for menswear, whether mixed with a leather jackets, coats or smart jackets.
A cry for normality came from Prada. The brand presented beige and brown ‘70s inspired clean looks made up of knitwear items, leather blazers and comfy trousers for men, and embroidered mohair tops and straight skirts for women. Stop loudness, think cool.