The 75th edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo, showcasing the F/W 2009-10 season and held in Florence’s Fortezza da Basso, ends today on a positive note. Despite the critical economic situation worldwide, crowded halls, lively visitors and busy booths are showing that optimism has not abandoned the Italian and international fashion landscape.

Even if final results are not available yet, buyers, visitors and exhibitors are showing hope for a recovering industry for the upcoming selling season. The trade show has so far welcomed visitors with stellar events such as “Workwear, Lavoro, Moda e Seduzione,” an exhibition dedicated to workwear and workwear-inspired fashion and curated by Oliviero Toscani on Jan. 13 at Stazione Leopolda. On Jan. 14 the American designer Thom Browne presented a fashion installation animated by clerk-chic anticonformists wearing fitted gray cardigans and blazers and ankle-length trousers. And last night Giambattista Vialli, this season’s guest designer at Pitti W_Woman Precollection, presented his collection against the sophisticated backdrop of Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio. Also hosting special events and installations were Luisa Via Roma, with an event for SealKay, the Adidas’s 60 Anniversary celebration and Napapijri. Roy Roger’s, the historical Italian jeanswear brand, also celebrated its 60th anniversary and launched a book on its history in fashion.

As for the biggest inspirations for the upcoming season, brands are offering an urban spirit with a mix of military, collegiate and vintage influences. Jeanswear and casualwear brands are focusing on a vintage spirit and a reinterpreted authenticity as Lee is doing with a re-edition of its historical 101 jeans model and other successful archived garments. Sealkay has reinterpreted the theme of mending and detailing and added a wide offer of second-hand inspired tops. Rifle, instead, is going back to its roots in relaunching its Antifit comfy jeans model. The US brand Citizens of Humanity, presented by shareholder and designer Adriano Goldschmied, has announced its intention to expand to Italy, Middle East and Russia through its new Milan showroon. And where J Brand is presenting its men’s collection, Gas, now facing a restructuring, is offering a new series of jeans styles made with 100% cotton selvage denim laser-cut and thermo-sealed designed by Maurizio Zaupa, designer and founder of Seal Kay.

Within the sportswear segment popular brands such as K-Way and Colmar are offering more fashion-minded products. Down-jackets brands like Kejo, Dekker and Peuterey offer a series of fur-trimmed and novel styles in bright pink, ombre and earth tones. Dockers is presenting a khaki offering of chinos particularly inspired by icons such as Paul Newman, Steve McQueen and Tab Hunter.

Among the new entries is the French historical sneaker brand Hungaria, worn by Michel Platini in the 1980s and making its debut in Italy as well as at Pitti W, and Mou, a British brand offering a directional interpretation of a bulky winter boot. Also new for the market is Alpha Delta Phi, an Italian brand created by long-time insider company Brama Sportswear and inspired by US college frat boy styles.

Accessories continue to play an important role. Timex, the popular watch brand is offering Timex 80, a re-edition of the 1980s digital wristwatch in colored and fluorescent hues and in mono and bi-color versions. They will be sold by Colette, Corso Como and Barneys at affordable prices such as €50-60. And Toy-Watch, the Italian manufacturer of innovative chronographs more popular in the US than in Italy, is offering stylish versions in black with red rhinestones, or black and pink gold versions. The newest bags by Yamamoto for the Y’s Mandarina project remind one of the zipped leather Perfecto jacket worn by rock ’n’ roll icons, while Borsalino offers innovative, youthful hats in raspberry red, brown, purple and blue, with an exclusive style designed for Lapo Elkann’s Italia Independent collaboration series.

—Maria Cristina Pavarini, Senior Features Editor