The fabric world is moving. Milan’s Moda In fair is seeking to join forces with other Italian fabric fairs, while Paris’ Premiere Vision had more visitors and hosted a series of ‘side’ initiatives.

Creating new opportunities for the European, top-quality fabric market is a must in the present fashion system. For this reason, Moda In is now taking serious action to finalise agreements to exhibit with other Italian fairs such as Ideacomo, Ideabiella and Shirt Avenue. Despite this, Prato Expo seems determined to remain aloof, although a possible agreement may be found for the autumn 2005 show. The last edition of Moda In drew over 17,000 visitors with an increased number of visitors from Eastern Europe. The fair also saw a particularly interesting seminar “The devil is in the details”, organized by Dettagli Moda Italia, an association of Italian trim, ribbon and textile accessory manufacturers.

Premiere Vision in Paris saw a two percent rise in visitors to 33,000 from the previous year, with more people arriving from the USA (almost 2000 people, up 16 percent) and Japan (1,300 people, up nine percent). In terms of products being offered, creativity and fantasy ruled. Zoomorphic and biomimicking materials, as shown by Schoeller, were especially in. Federico Aspesi and Carlo Canziani featured decorated fabrics with unusual material applications and laser cuts. Funky and art-inspired prints were offered by Star, while Bie Barzaghi focused on outerwear fabrics with new light-effects and unique surfaces. For autumn/winter 2005-2006, Eurojersey’s Sensitive fabric, an innovative multi-purpose jersey material, featured new prints, creating a worn-out, sandblasted denim look. Eurojersey also offered a wider color chart based on a worldwide study of colors most favored by consumers.

As for denims and cottons, new colors and innovative processes shone through. Legler presented two new denim colors - brown and light blue, that lend thenselves to different finishings and surface treatments. Hellenic Fabrics offered denim with hydratating and cosmetic properties. Tavex presented a wide series of new treatments together with a wider selection of denim products. Italdenim showed two different denims that give a seersucker surface effect as well as a group of fabrics that have a stable color shade or aged look wash after wash. Bossa is launching a wider selection of denims with green and red casts, while ITV is launching a 100 percent indigo-dyed jersey. Calik Denim has increased its colored denim offerings, thanks to new investments in the finishing and dyeing process. Warm colors were also part of Cotonificio Veneto’s new collection aimed at driving new interest in the market. Isko is offering a wider collection of denims in order to better meet the jeanswear industry’s needs. Santana offered a great selection of new denims including some made with recycled denims carrying indigo-dyed yarns on both warp and weft. UCO Sportswear is launching a Chalked Denim series of products that have a dust-like surface as well as some fabrics with a light Lurex percentage giving an iced and shiny effect. Parallel to PV Dupontsa, the new joint venture partnership of Turkey’s Sabanci group and DuPont’s Coolmax, was a fashion show developed by students of the Niederhein Hochschule presenting how versatile Coolmax can be.

Lenzing’s future strategy for the Tencel brand following its acquisition, was also officially announced during a trip along the Seine. A group of Italian manufacturers created a meeting point for PV’s visitors during the three nights of PV at the Institute Du Monde Arabe. Those involved included Martelli laundry, Italian fabric manufacturers Italdenim, Niggeler & Kupfer, Panamà, Pecci and Pontoglio . The event offered music and art with drinks, food and a friendly atmosphere in a building that is a masterpiece of modern art. Fantasy can do so much to make this business grow.

Maria Cristina Pavarini