Raimund Berthold of Berthold shows off a denim parka from the F/W13 collection
Raimund Berthold of Berthold shows off a denim parka from the F/W13 collection

11 Jan. 2013

Report: London Collections: Men

The second edition of London Collections: Men (7-9 Jan.) was brought to a close on Wednesday. This season, the show schedule consisted of over 60 names, and the curated exhibition at The Hospital Club– the private members club that serves as LC:M’s centrally located hub – showcased the wares of about 30 labels spanning RTW, footwear, accessories and jewelry. The mood among exhibitors appeared relaxed but upbeat. Said Raimund Berthold of Berthold: “This is the second season I’ve exhibited at LC:M and I’m very pleased with the outcome. All the major international buyers and editors have come through at some point during the event, although the busiest times are before and after the shows that are held at the venue.”

Judging by the quality of visitors and participating designers, the arrival of LC:M has been received with open arms. Among the diverse on-schedule events, tailoring names such as Richard James and hip London favorites YMC, Lou Dalton and Oliver Spencer generated much buzz, but not all participators hailed from the host country. Tommy Hilfiger partook by way of co-hosting a party at The Setter Townhouse in celebration of his F/W 13 tailoring range, and Swiss brand Bally erected a large tent in Bedford Square Gardens to mark 60th Anniversary of the first ascent of Mount Everest. Within the sprawling structure nestled a selection of sturdy leather accessories and furry boots and mittens, all displayed as part of a rather convincing piece of vintage set design.

Bally Everest Event at London Collection: Men
Bally Everest Event at London Collection: Men
Topman Design’s collection had an air of explorers’ chic about it, too, particularly so the parkas with fur-trimmed hoods worn with statement rucksacks. British Fashion Award winner J.W. Anderson’s offering, meanwhile, set out to examine “bourgeois kinkiness and boudoir perversity”. The accuracy of the show notes became apparent as soon as the first model set foot on the catwalk. With shiny and elegantly side-parted hair, he sported a pair ruffle-hemmed shorts and a matching sweater made ultra pretty with a touch of soft pleating at the neckline. To complete the ensemble, the Irish designer added a pair of black ruffle adorned riding boots, a style that accompanied many of the looks.

There were plenty of jean interpretations and denim around, both on and off the catwalk. Edgy talent Alex Mattsson went for an oversized version in grey hemp with a subtle drop crotch and topstitched pleats, while Martine Rose teamed a cut-off denim jacket in true blue with billowing trousers. Berthold, meanwhile,  had opted to fashion an architecturally cut parka from black denim. Another definite highlight was the unveiling of Aitor Throup’s first full RTW range. It encompassed 20 intricately engineered pieces, including a pair of jeans that enclosed both feet.
Emma Holmqvist

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