Elie Saab @ Paris Fashion Week
Elie Saab @ Paris Fashion Week

08 Mar. 2012


Paris Fashion Week Gallery
Paris Fashion Week came to an end yesterday with more than 100 fashion shows taking place over the course of nine days. The finale was full of big names such as Miu Miu, Elie Saab and a highlight-show from Louis Vuitton, where Marc Jacobs drove a real  train into the Grand Palais. The fall/winter 2012/13 season confirmed the tendency of fashion houses to keep the image of their collections consistent with the DNA of the house or founder. This was seen at Nina Ricci, for instance, where Peter Copping translated the brand's femininity into modern perfection. Manish Arora of Paco Rabanne delivered a flawless collection, transferring the avant-garde and famous metal-dresses of the past into the present. Hermès' Christophe Lemaire developed the brand's history of travelling and nomadism into a gaucho collection full of surprises.

Big & Oversized
Maison Martin Margiela paired sweatshirt-fabrics with fur.
Maison Martin Margiela paired sweatshirt-fabrics with fur.
Mixing materials and forms were a big theme this season. As usual, Balenciaga set the direction of fashion's future. Big, oversized and voluminous jackets stood out especially combined with chiffon layered skirts with technical materials at the hems, giving them weight which fell nicely at the legs. Other houses also mixed materials: Viktor & Rolf combined fur with chiffon, Dior had skirts of leather and silk, and Maison Martin Margiela paired sweatshirt-fabrics with fur. For Chanel Karl Lagerfeld dressed his models in lurex grid-textiles over wool trousers and Stefano Pilati combined a metallic grid skirt with a satin blouse for his last show with Yves Saint Laurent.

Carven - Défilé Collection f/w 2012-13, Paris
Feathers Plus Tops
Gold, glittering materials and stone and gem ornaments are back in fashion and give modern purism a softer attitude. Details like peplums, pinafores, belts and elborated backs with quillings or feathers plus tops with asymmetrical necklines were all stand-outs. Patterns at Miu Miu, Hermes, Rochas, Dries van Noten, Gaultier, Carven and Akris served as counterparts to the monotone dresses in black, electric blue and Indian mustard.

Miu Miu contributed to the grande finale of PFW.
Miu Miu contributed to the grande finale of PFW.
Revival Of The Trousers
Paris confirmed that sexiness isn’t appropriate for times of crises. Mini-skirts and revealing tops have disappeared from catwalks. Elegance is back, with trousers celebrating a revival and skirts and dresses coming down to the knee. Waistlines have stayed small, as seen at Lanvin, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Giambattista Valli. Hips and shoulders, however, were accentuated and voluminous at Véronique Leroy, Chanel, Stella McCartney, Issey Miyake, Haider Ackermann and Chloé. The complete silhouette was flowing, sometimes reminiscent of the 40s (Sonia Rykiel, Roland Mouret, Valentino) and at times of the 80s.

Apart from all of the shows and presentations, Diesel inaugurated their new Paris flagship in the Marais district. The Musée des Arts Décoratifs opened their exhibition about Marc Jacobs' work for Louis Vuitton and Yves Saint Laurent named Hedi Slimane as their new designer and successor of Stefano Pilati. No announcement was made by Christian Dior, where rumours concerning Galliano's replacement centered around Raf Simons and Maxime Simoens, who apparently quit Leonard after only one show.
Barbara Markert

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