Kristina Ti @ Milan Fashion Week
Kristina Ti @ Milan Fashion Week

02 Mar. 2012


Milan Fashion Week, held between February 22 and 29, has come to a successful end. According to international visitors and retailers, results were positive due to the top-level creativity, quality and ideas presented. A few days before the shows started, Mario Boselli, president of the Italian Fashion Chamber, joked, "Despite the general international difficulties and problems, the Italian fashion world undoubtedly maintains its triple-A status.” He reconfirmed his satisfaction with the results at the end of Fashion Week, which presented 72 runway shows from major Italian and foreign designers and 137 collections all in all.

Drama and Color

Trends were focused on a passionate sense for dramatics and hyped emotional states of mind. Baroque black and gold contrasts (Dolce&Gabbana) and metallic mixes (Versace, Ferrè, Calvin Klein Jeans), as well as defined black and white contrasts (Rocco Barocco, Blugirl, Etro, Richmond, Moschino) characterized many shows. A decidedly black-on-black romantic flair defined Gucci, while among others strong color statements were hot. Giorgio Armani, for instance, took on energetic orange and fuchsia elements; Blumarine incorporated yellow neon mongolia jackets; Jil Sander - while bidding adieu to Raf Simons - opted for delicate pastel pinks and vibrant reds; DSquared mixed green, pink and mustard as well as mink jackets with denim capris or evening dresses with cropped denim jackets. Furs and fur trimmings were in almost every show - mostly mongolia, fox and astrakhan - in a rainbow of colors and boy-meets-girl styles (Rocco Barocco, Trussardi, Fratelli Rossetti).

Prada @ Milan Fashion Week
Prada @ Milan Fashion Week
Strong Optics
Boxy looks, cirè trenches and deconstructed, sleeveless coats in bold color mixes were hot at Marni. C'N'C Costume National displayed clean, straight dresses in contrasting color elements and Prada offered geometrical color clashing mixes. Patches of patterns added liveliness to Antonio Marras' grey and black outfits. Blurred and out of focus prints distinguished collections such as Rocco Barocco and Iceberg, as well as furs carrying printed checks, as seen at Iceberg and Marni. Mixing lurex, different knitwear elements and other motifs characterized Kristina Ti.

Sporty and Cool
Sportiness was not a strong trend this season, apart from a few exceptions such as Ermanno Scervino, 
Ermanno Scervino f/w 2012-13
Ermanno Scervino f/w 2012-13
who redesigned a modern chic horse-rider wearing moss green bustiers mixed with pencil skirts and jodpuhrs and olive green parkas emphasizing the waist-line or Frankie Morello, who focused on rugby-wear with exaggerated stud applications. Also a newcomer, Cristiano Burani revamped neoprene and mesh outfits to which he added sequins and fox trimmings. Ludovico Loffreda keeps reinventing fashion through inspiration from workwear and his use of technical fabrics. Dirk Bikkembergs relaunched its women's collection, which included a few activewear pieces for chic snowboarders. Miss Sixty presented Wicky Hassan's projects Labirinto D'Emozioni, which was also shown at Bread&Butter Berlin, at the brand's newly inaugurated showroom at Via Tortona 37. Historic Swiss brand Jet Set chose Milan to reveal their new direction, while Bogner opened a new Milan showroom.

Roberto Cavalli @ Milan Fashion Week
Roberto Cavalli @ Milan Fashion Week

A '50s-'60s atmosphere pervaded collections like John Richmond, Squared, Chicca Lualdi Bequeen, Lorenzo Riva and Isola Marras both in terms of garment construction and styling. Some '80s nostalgia also emerged, especially from Trussardi and C'N'C Costume National, which catered to normal women's bodies with softer fits and bigger sizes from brands like Mirò and and Fattaperpiacere, part of a specific initiative. Low-raise pants were rarely seen, with waistlines becoming generally higher than in the past. Ballerinas were also around, especially at Giorgio Armani, again giving some relief to the average woman.
Maria Cristina Pavarini

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