Shoe by Fornarina
Shoe by Fornarina

09 Mar. 2012


Micam reported a slow first day on March 4, which was followed by some upped activity before the footwear show's close on March 7. The fair registered 36,049 visitors, a decrease of 7.12% compared to last year's event. Most significant was the decrease of Italian visitors, at a drop of 9.68%. Foreign buyers, on the other hand, especially those from Asia and Germany, contributed to busier corridors and movement among the presented trends from the fall/winter 2012/2013 footwear collections.

Contrasts set the rule for the season. There was a range of super-high heels, plateau soles, ballerinas, biker boots and moon-boot styles (Liu Jo, Crocs), along with cropped ankle boots, often showing a turn-down in either fur, fake lamb, checked wool (Logan, El Naturalista) or boucle wool. Biker boots were a must that never disappeared from the scene, whether covered in studs, encrusted with crystals or branded on the surface. A new 10cm, curved high heel model made rounds as well.

Another new idea came from the Spanish boot brand Art, which has begun to separately sell sets of accessories complementing their shoes. They offer strings of colored pearls, colorful striped knitwear elements and short scarves to wrap around or apply onto the boot.

Glittering surfaces and sequins were seen on pumps and sneakers alike at the collections presented by Fornarina and Replay (which did not participate at the show, but held a parallel event at the brand's Milan showroom). There were also varying colored uppers in suede or lacquer (Harmont & Blaine, Voile Blanche), some even offering a special full color "tuffato" effect, in which the shoe is dipped into color or shows contrasting soles, for example in bright yellow (Cappelletti, OXS).

Most significant was the decrease of Italian visitors, at a drop of 9.68%.
Most significant was the decrease of Italian visitors, at a drop of 9.68%.

Sci-fi effects characterized colorful rip-stop nylon boots with suede and lacquered leather inserts (Logan Crossing). Hiking boots were reinvented in more feminine versions with high heels, contrasting colors (like electric blue and red) and visible hooks. A special version of a Logan ankle boot offered hook closure similar to that of lingerie and corsets, but larger and very sturdy. El Naturalista's shows – often characterized by details such as a catchy sole designs like mushroom's lamellas, an iron-horse, a map of the world, a nest effect or sets of wooden sticks – show that for them sustainability isn't only an intrinsic matter, but an aesthetic one as well.

According to Cleto Sagripanti (president of the show and of ANCI, the Italian association of footwear manufacturers), despite the negative outcome, the Italian shoe market has maintained significant results. In fact, while the show slightly decreased its exhibiting spaces from about 72,000 sqm to 68,596 sqm, it held onto 1,560 exhibitors, 609 of which were foreign. Furthermore, the Italian footwear market has kept its export quotas at +12%.
Maria Cristina Pavarini

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